Wednesday, June 7, 2023

Why do they say this?



Misconception (spread on social media, especially English-speaking Facebook groups): Loja is unattractive.

Clarification:  If you look for information about the city of Loja on English-speaking social media sites, especially Facebook, you will find lots of people saying that Loja is ugly, grey and boring. This is fascinating given the intense natural beauty here. It is true that we have a lot more hours of overcast skies than sunny skies in any 12-month cycle, but the cloudy skies highlight the lovely green mountainsides which host a variety of plant life ranging from swaying palm trees to a great mix of tropical, semi-tropical and desert-like plants and a wide variety of flowers. And in recent years Loja no longer has a dry season, so (unlike a lot of Ecuador and unlike Vilcabamba), it is green 12 months out of the year here.



But very few expats have ever seen much of Loja. Those who live in Cuenca pass through on their way to visit Vilcabamba but rarely see much more than the bus terminal or the shared taxi terminal. The expats who live in Vilcabamba come into Loja to shop and see just a small portion of the urban part of the city. Even those who visit Loja for a few days tend to stay downtown and see almost none of the city. Those who do not speak Spanish often find it impossible to see other parts because they cannot communicate with the taxi drivers or the locals to find out where else to go. I've talked to North Americans who spent a year or more in Loja and never saw more than a little bit of the urban part. One spent three years in the city and stated that it had never occurred to her that Loja was a mountainous city. This is remarkable since the geographic area of the city is built up and down the mountainsides for miles in all directions. So the comments posted about Loja on the expat social media sites are often from people who have seen pretty close to none of the city.



In contrast, Ecuadorians from as far north as Quito and as far west as Guayaquil and Machala have told me that Loja is THE prettiest city in Ecuador. Even Peruvians in northern Peru told me this. The only place I've been in Ecuador where Ecuadorians didn't tell me this was in Cuenca and it would seem that Cuenca has a mostly one-way rivalry with Loja. I'm sure there is some historical basis for this, but we'll just leave it that many Ecuadorians from Cuenca say terrible things about the people of Loja, none of which I have found to be true.




Now, this is not to say that every non-Cuenca Ecuadorian views Loja as gorgeous. As in any country, there are city people who dislike nature, who would much rather look at buildings than grazing pastures, would much rather see cars than llamas and goats wandering freely and who are much more comfortable walking along a highway than a hiking trail. We have these people in Ecuador, too. Such people will be unimpressed with Loja because the beauty here is in nature, not in human-made structures. And that's okay. It takes all kinds of people to make a world or even a country. And boring? Perhaps, if your idea of fun is vibrant city night life and activities 24/7.



I sat next to an Ecuadorian college student on a bus a couple years ago, returning from Cuenca to Loja and stopping at her village near Saraguro (an hour north of Loja). She told me that she prefers Cuenca over Loja because she loves to go out dancing and drinking at night. But, she said that if you have to be in a city but you want to be in nature, Loja is THE place to be and for that she was grateful to have Loja only one hour away. We chatted and shared my food all the way until the bus reached her village.  As she was leaving she kissed me on the cheek in the customary Ecuadorian way of saying good bye and I wished her well.


4 comments:

  1. The first place I ever heard about in Ecuador was Loja...from the "Happy" video. I love the beauty of the area and am looking forward to seeing this wonder-filled
    location up close next summer! Only 11 more months to wait :)
    Cheryl Weatherhead

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  2. That was a great video, wasn't it? Best of luck in your travels, Cheryl. To really see the natural beauty of the city of Loja, be sure to get at least a little bit away from the most urban parts of the city. Enjoy!

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  3. Great Stuff Diana!! This site is SOOOO needed! And with the way things change (taxi fees, rents, food, etc) other static sites, books, etc are really becoming a problem.

    I am a 3-yr resident of a town an hour south, but travel frequently to Loja for many things, so for what its worth here is my take on the 'ugly' tag:

    As you have already explained, more or less, beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but I think also that semantics and comparative evaluation play a role as well. For example, the word 'city' could mean either the central urban district, or the metropolitan area in general. Having visited the other major cities, it seems to me that while Loja is 'coming up' fast, there is significantly more COMPLETED urban renewal in the other cities. This is reflected in the condition of the streets and sidewalks as well as the rivers. To be fair, and given the smaller budget, Loja is doing great. It is much cheaper to construct and maintain broad valleys or coastal plains than the more mountainous regions, and when it rains in Loja it causes a lot more disruption and erosion, so street safety and weather intervention takes a huge chunk here.

    That said, I agree that the condition of El Centro is more than compensated for by the beauty of the SUB-urban areas ....which I find much better looking than the other major cities.

    In spite of these challenges, Loja DOES have a LOT of urban renewal going on at the moment, and is on its way to being as beautiful downtown as any other major city. They have already begun to put electrical wires underground, and have completed this task in the Central Park area. Rio Malacatos (a large river running through the heart of El Centro) will also be much prettier when the upstream construction is completed ....which will be followed by a massive clean-up and the return of clear water! The government is advertising everywhere their beautification program, and all public transportation has signs prohibiting throwing trash out the windows + provides plastic bags for every seat on the buses.

    Like the old AVIS commercial, Loja may not be #1, but they are "trying harder".

    That's my 'dos centavos' ...hope it helps :)

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  4. Thanks for adding your perspective Jim! It's absolutely true that the people who say Loja is ugly have never seen most of it (or are legally blind :) ) It isn't the BUILDINGS that make Loja so pretty, the buildings look like buildings you would find in any city in Ecuador. It's the natural surroundings that are inside the city limits that are so beautiful. This page works to clarify what is part of the city of Loja: http://www.lojaisnotasmalltown.blogspot.com/ North American expats seem to think only the downtown area is the city, but that is just a very small part of it.

    In the area up around Quito, an Ecuadorian from Loja commented to me that the govt favors the north of the country over the south and thus Loja has had less investment in infrastructure. However, when I moved from Cuenca to Loja, I noticed the sidewalks in Loja were in MUCH better shape than the ones in Cuenca. Not perfect by any means, but way fewer holes and metal objects sticking up and definitely smoother. The roads were in better shape, too. That may not be the case anymore as the perpetual rains are always tearing up the asphalt, but they do try harder here, the road crews are out 6 days a week repairing things all year long.

    Cuenca and Quito did a better job maintaining their historic buildings, so for people who love that sort of thing, those are cities that should make them happy. Loja has a few well-maintained historic buildings, but not nearly as many. As I said, you don't come to Loja for the buildings, but for the natural surroundings!

    In the past, Loja won awards for being one of the cleanest cities in Latin America, but the person who was the mayor at that time later left the office for about 10 years, and during those years a lot of environmental programs fell by the wayside. The rivers filled up with trash, especially in more urban areas, people started dropping their trash anywhere (as they do in all of Ecuador) and lots of places were not kept clean or maintained. Now that previous mayor is back in office and they are trying to clean up the city again, but with the flood damage from the 4 nights of torrential rains in March and the tight budgets due to the current financial crisis affecting the whole country, it is an uphill battle. Hopefully, poco a poco, we can all work together to make Loja a world class environmental city once again.

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